The Qaitbay Citadel in Alexandria is considered one of the most important defensive strongholds, not only in Egypt, but also along the Mediterranean Sea coast. It formulated an important part of the fortification system of Alexandria in the 15th century A.D.

The Citadel is situated at the entrance of the eastern harbour on the eastern point of the Pharos Island. It was erected on the exact site of the famous Lighthouse of Alexandria, which was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The lighthouse continued to function until the time of the Arab conquest, then several disasters occurred and the shape of the lighthouse was changed to some extent, but it still continued to function. Restoration began in the period of Ahmed Ibn Tulun (about 880 A.D). During the 11th century an earthquake occurred, causing damage to the octagonal part. The bottom survived, but it could only serve as a watchtower, and a small Mosque was built on the top. In the 14th century there was a very destructive earthquake and the whole building was completely destroyed.


About 1480 A.D, the Mameluke Sultan Al-Ashraf Qaitbay fortified the place as part of his coastal defensive edifices against the Turks, who were threatening Egypt at that time. He built the castle and placed a Mosque inside it. The Citadel continued to function during most of the Mameluke period, the Ottoman period and the Modern period, but after the British bombardment of the city of Alexandria in 1883, it was kept out of the spotlight. It became neglected until the 20th century, when it was restored several times by the Egyptian Supreme Counsel of Antiquities.
The founder of the Citadel of Qaitbay is Sultan Al-Ashraf Abou Anasr Saif El-Din Qaitbay El-Jerkasy Al-Zahiry (1468-1496 A.D) who was born about 1423 A.D (826 H). He was a Mamluke who had come to Egypt as a young man, less than 20 years old. Bought by Al-Ashraf Bersbay, he remained among his attendants until Al-Ashraf Bersbay died. Then the Sultan Djaqmaq bought Qaitbay, and later gave him his freedom. Qaitbay then went on to occupy various posts. He became the Chief of the Army (Atabec Al-Askar) during the rule of the Sultan Tamar bugha. When the Sultan was dethroned, Qaitbay was appointed as a Sultan who was titled Almalek Al-Ashraf on Monday 26th Ragab, 872 H. (1468 A.D). He was one of the most important and prominent Mameluke Sultans, ruling for about 29 years. He was a brave king, who tried to initiate a new era with the Ottomans by exchanging embassies and gifts. He was fond of travel and made many prominent journeys.

Qaitbay was so fond of art and architecture that he created an important post among the administrative system of the state; it was the Edifices Mason (Shady Al-Ama'er). He built many beneficial constructions in Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem. In Egypt there are about 70 renovated edifices attributed to him, among them are Mosques, Madrasas, Agencies, Fountain houses (Sabils), Kuttabs, houses, military edifices like the Citadels in Alexandria and Rosetta (Nowadays the city of Rashid). These Citadels were built to protect the north of Egypt, mainly against the Ottomans, whose power was increasing in the Mediterranean.
Qagmas Al-Eshaqy, The Edifices Mason, was the architect of the Citadel. Before his arrival in Egypt he was a Mameluke of Djakmaq in Syria. During the rule of Qaitbay he became the edifices mason, and then the Viceroy of Alexandria. He was appointed governor of Syria (Damascus), built a Mosque outside the gate of Rashid (Bab Rashid) as well as a Cenotaph and a Khan. He also renovated the Mosque of El-Sawary outside the gate of Sadrah (Bab Sadrah).
Qagmas was intelligent and modest, as well as the overseer of many constructions during the time of Qaitbay. In 882 H. (1477 A.D) the Sultan Qaitbay visited the site of the old lighthouse in Alexandria and ordered a fortress to be built on its foundations. The construction lasted about 2 years, and it is said that Qaitbay spent more than a hundred thousand Dinars for the work on the Citadel.
Ibn Ayas mentioned that building of this fort started in the month of Rabi Alawal 882 H. He said that the Sultan Qaitbay travelled to Alexandria, accompanied with some other Mameluke princes, to visit the site of the old lighthouse and during this visit he ordered the building of the Citadel.
In the month of Shaban 884 H, the Sultan Qaitbay travelled again to Alexandria when the construction was finished. He provided the fort with a brave legion of soldiers and various weapons. He also, as Ibn Ayas mentioned, dedicated several waqfs from which he financed the construction works as well as the salaries of the soldiers.

Throughout the Mameluke period, and due to its strategic location, the Citadel was well maintained by all the rulers who came after Qaitbay.
The Sultan Qansoh El-Ghoury gave the Citadel special attention. He visited it several times and increased the strength of the garrison, providing it with various weapons and equipment. It included a large prison made for the princes and the state-men whom the Sultan kept away from his favour for some reason. In the episodes of the year 920 H, the Sultan El-Ghoury travelled to Alexandria with other princes. They went to the Citadel of Qaitbay where he watched some manoeuvres and military training on the defensive weapons of the Citadel of that era. When he felt the approach of the Ottoman threat, he issued a military decree to forbid weapons to be taken out of the Citadel, he even announced that the death penalty would be the punishment to those who try to steal anything from the Citadel, and he ordered the inscription of this decree on a marble slate fixed to the door leading the court. It says"
Bism Ellah El-Rahman El-Rahim
"A decree by the order of our master, the noble rank, King Al-Ashraf Abou El-Naser Qansoh El-Ghoury, May God eternalise his reign, that no body should take Makahel weapon, gun powder, tools, or any other thing from the noble tower in Alexandria: and any one of the tower party, whether Mameluke, Slaves or Zarad Kashia, who breaks this (decree) and leaves the tower with something will be hanged at the gate of the tower, deserving the curse of God." 
Dated Rabei Alawal 907 H.
After the Ottoman Turks had conquered Egypt, even they cared for this unique Citadel. They used it for shelter, as they had done with the Citadel of Saladin in Cairo and the Citadels of Damieta, Rosetta, Al Borollos and El-Arish. They kept it in good condition and stationed it with infantry, artillery, a company of drummers and trumpeters, masons and carpenters.
As the Ottoman military became weak, the Citadel began to lose its military importance. In 1798 A.D, during the French expedition of Egypt, it fell into the hands of the French troops, mainly because of the weakness of the Citadel garrison, and the power of the French modern weapons at that time. Inside, the French found some crusader weapons, which dated back to the campaign of Louis IX. Maybe it was a spoil after the battle and capture of El-Mansoura!
When Mohammed Ali became the ruler of Egypt in 1805, he renovated the old Citadel, restoring and repairing its outer ramparts, and he provided the stronghold with the most modern weapons of the period, particularly the littoral cannons. We can consider the reign of Mohamed Ali as being another golden era for the Citadel.
The Citadel retained the interest of Mohammed Ali's successors until the year 1882 when the Orabi revolution took place The British fleet bombarded Alexandria violently on 11 July 1882 and damaged a large part of the city, especially in the area of the Citadel. This attack cracked the fortress, causing great damage. The north and western facades were severely damaged as a result of cannon explosions, aimed directly at the structure. The western facade was completely destroyed, leaving large gaps in it.
Unfortunately, the Citadel then remained neglected, until 1904 when the Ministry of Defence restored the Upper floors. King Farouk wanted to turn the Citadel into a royal Rest house so he ordered a rapid renovation on it.

After the revolution of 1952 the Egyptian Naval troops turned the building to a Maritime Museum. The biggest restoration work dates back to 1984, when the Egyptian Antiquities Organization made ambitious plans to restore the fort.

The mosque of Al Azhar is the first ismalic university built in cairo around 1000 years ago and it was the official mosque to have the Friday prayer. It was built by the great Fatimid army leader and the builder of Cairo, Gawhar El Seqelly with the orders of the Fatimid Caliph, Al Mui'z le Din Allah. The building work of the mosque of Al Azhar started in the year 970 AD and it was finished three years afterwards in 972 AD.
 

The objective behind building it was to make it the official mosque of Cairo, the same as the Mosque of Amr Ibn El Aas in Fostat, Mosque of Ahmed Ibn Tulun in Qata'ea. It was also established to be an educational institution to teach Shiite teachings and spread it all over the country.

Architectural description

The area that was first built in the Azhar Mosque consisted of only half the area it has now. Additions, new buildings, and restorations were done during all of the following eras until the Mosque of Al Azhar Appeared in the shape it is today.

The early mosque of Al Azhar consisted of three iwnas, prayer halls, around and a Sahn, an open air courtyard. The gate of the mosque was located in the mosque's Western walls and this section contained a simple Fatimid minaret. This section was decorated with Kofy Islamic writings and plant ornaments which are the only remaining feature of the ancient mosque that is still available now.

The old Mihrab of the mosque was richly decorated with ornaments and Kofi writings of Quran. There is also a Mamluk style dome that goes back to the 15th century which took the place of the Fatimid dome.

The mosque of Al Azhar had three gates in its Northern, southern, and western walls. The original menbar built by Gawher El Seqqely was then transferred to the Mosque of Al Hakim. When the mosque was built the Imam used to deliver his Friday speech one week in Al Azhar Mosque, another in the Mosque of Al Hakim, another in the mosque of Ahmed Ibn Tulun, and another Friday in Amr Ibn El Aas Mosque.

Al Azhar Mosque in the Fatimid period

The mosque of Al Azhar went through a lot of changes in the Fatimid period. Al Hakim be'amr Allah added 27 amazing lamps to the mosque which were made of silver. What remains of the works of Al Hakim is a small wooden door that is richly decorated with Kufi writings which was the dominant decoration feature of this era

In 1125 AD, the Fatimid ruler Al Amer be'ahkam Allah established a Mihrab for the mosque made out of the Aro Turkish wood which was decorated with a lot of plant and geometric shapes.

In 1149 AD the Fatimid Caliph, Al Hafez Le Dine Allah wanted to expand the area of the mosque so he added some space to the Sahn of the mosque. He also added some decorations to the walls of the mosque and it was built out of plaster.

The mosque of Al Azhar in the Mamluk period

In 1266 AD, Al Zaher Baybars ordered to build a Minbar and nothing remains of it except its historical building note which is now kept in the museum in Algeria.
 

A new Madrasa, the Tabrisy Madrasa, Islamic teaching institution was built by Baybars Khazendar, the army commander in the reign of Al Nasser Mohamed Ibn Qalaun. It is located to right hand when you enter the mosque. This added a bigger space to the Mosque which hosted Islamic teachings classes and also had a large Islamic books library.

The Afghaweya Madrasa was built in 1340 AD and it is located on the left hand side of the entrance and it hosts the library of Al Azhar in the present time.
 

Al Gawhareya Madrasa which was built in the Eastern Southern section of the mosque and it is a small Madrasa consisting of four Iwans and a small Sahn.

The mosque of Al Azhar in the Ottoman era

The Mosque of Al Azhar has seen a lot of building works in the Ottoman era. The biggest and most important building work was done by the Amir Abdel Rahman Katkhuda in 1753 AD as he expanded the area of the mosque by adding a Riwaq behind the Mihrab and it was built on a higher level than the whole mosque. He also added a new Minbar and Mihrab. Katkhuda added two great gates as well: the first in the Southern wall and it was called the Sa'ayda gate and the Shroba gate in the Eastern section of the mosque and added a minaret beside it. Katkhuda was also responsible for building the beautiful Western gate with its amazing Islamic decorations and which is now the main entrance of the mosque.

The mosque has been also restored by the supreme council of antiquities in the modern time

Al Azhar as a mosque and as an educational institution has played a major role in the whole Egyptian history, especially in fighting the French and British occupation.

Al Azhar University

It is the largest and most important Islamic teaching institution in the whole world and it is the second modern university to be built in history. Islamic teaching in Al Azhar University, which was transformed from Shiite teaching to Sunni teaching, started in the Fatimid era and it is still one of the most important education institutions in Egypt and in the whole world.

Egypt is famous in particular for the diversity and multitude of its Islamic monuments which were built through different eras. The building of Islamic monuments in Egypt has started since the Moslems first opened Egypt in 641 AD. From this point on, Egypt has been ruled by many Islamic dynasties: starting with the "Rashdin Caliphs", the Tulunids, the Fatimids, the Ayyubids, the Mamluks, the Ottomans, and ending with rulers from the family of Mohamed Ali.

Each of these periods had its own requirements and characteristics which were clearly reflected on the shape, size, and style of the architecture. Moreover, Each ruler tried his best to build structures that express the features of the period he went through.

Among the most famous Islamic monuments in Egypt , there is the Mosque of Mohamed Ali in the citadel of Salah El Din, the Madrasa of Sultan Hassan, the Mosque of Ahmed Ibn Tulun, The mosque of Al Azhar, and the Mosque of Amr Ibn Al As, the oldest mosque ever built in Egypt and in Africa.one of the oldest Islamic monuments in Egypt, and its builder, Al Hakim, one of the most famous Caliphs that ever ruled Egypt.

However, there are many other amazing Islamic monuments in Egypt that tourists, and even Egyptians themselves, usually miss because probably they don’t know of their existence. Some of these monuments are really unique ,picturesque, and have been built on a vast piece of land .

One of the best examples of these remarkable monuments is the Mosque of Al Hakim Be'amr Allah which is considered

The Mosque of Al Hakim is now located at the end of Al Muiz Street very close to Bab El Fetooh, one of Egypt's ancient gates. It is also near the famous Khan El Khalili market. Therefore, it is always a good idea to explore the monuments in the Muiz Street after visiting the most famous tourists market in the world, putting in consideration that Cairo one day only consisted of this narrow street and the areas around it. Therefore the street contains a huge variety of Islamic monuments.

 

Al Hakim and his advocacy for the new religion!

Construction work of the ancient Mosque of Al Hakim started in the year 990 AD with a decision from the Fatimid Caliph "Al Aziz be Allah Ibn Al Muiz le Din Allah" and the mosque was completed in 1012 during the reign of Al Hakim Be'amr Allah, the third Fatimid ruler in Egypt.

Many rumors and a lot of debates were aroused around Al Hakim, his ideas, and the period of his rule. Al Hakim came to power when he was only 11 years old and he formed a plan to assassinate his tutor while he was 15 and he succeeded. It was said that he burned a lot of places in Cairo when people objected to obey some of his weird laws like: replacing his name instead of the name of god, Allah, in the prayers, forbidding people from eating mallow, the Egyptian Molokhia which is one of the most popular Egyptian dishes until now because he hated it. He also prohibited shoemakers to manufacture shoes for women as he believed they should stay home, and it was also debated that he ordered his men once to throw all of Egypt's production of molasses in the river Nile, and many other stories and rumors.

The weirdest and most serious story that was told concerning Al Hakim was that he used to go to a cave in Al Moqatem mountain and stay there alone for long hours. One night, he claimed that he heard a voice telling him that he should unite both religions, Islam and Christianity, to become one new unified religion. The reason maybe why these ideas entered his head is that his father is the founder of the Fatimid Shiite doctrine and in the same time his mother was the sister of the Patriarch of the Copts in Egypt at the time.

The theory of Al Hakim depends on the notion that there is only one god, so why don’t we have only one religion, Why shouldn’t we have only one profit, and why shouldn’t him, Al Hakim, become this prophet conveying the message of this new religion.

When Al Hakim started planning how to spread the message of this new religion, he didn’t know the conspiracy that was taking place around him, with one of the royal family ladies participating in it with the help of the army commander, Seif El Din Ibn Rawash. They decided to assassinate him before he spreads the poison of this new religion among the people of Egypt, putting into account that the Fatimids were Shiites and very conservative towards their Islamic beliefs and thoughts.

As a matter of fact, one night while Al Hakim was riding his donkey and going to his Cave in the mountain, a group of strong black slaves attacked him and killed him, and his body was never found until today. This was the last event in the life of one of the strangest rulers of Egypt.

Although, many historical theories support all of the facts mentioned above, nobody was ever sure what was really inside the head of Al Hakim and was he really a cruel ruler or did his assassins spread these rumors to ruin his reputation and his history. They only absolute fact about Al Hakim is his mosque which is still present in Egypt until today.

The architectural description of the mosque

The mosque of Al Hakim is the second largest Fatimid Mosque in Egypt and its design is similar to that of the mosque of Ahmed Ibn Tolon. The mosque was mainly built out of brick other than the two unique minarets that were built out of stone.

The mosque consists of an open courtyard "Sahn" with four halls "Riwaq" surrounding it from the four directions and the largest and most beautiful among them is the Qibla Riwaq which identifies the direction to Mecca where Moslems should be facing while praying.

The mosque of Al Hakim is famous for three main architectural characteristics. The first is the memorial entrance with its huge size and fabulous decorations. This entrance is the first of its kind to be built in Egypt and there isn’t any other mosque entrances that can be compared to it except the one of Al Mahdeya Mosque in Tunisia.

The second beautiful architectural aspects of this mosque is its wide white marble floor that reflects the mosque itself from inside. A lot of flakes of birds are usually seen flying around the mosque and standing on its amazing floor as they drink water from its fountain.

The third and most and unparalleled feature of Al Hakim
Mosque is it's uniquely designed two minarets which are located at the North and South corners of its western entrance. They are the oldest surviving minarets in Egypt. Furthermore, there isn’t any minaret in Egypt that would look like those of Al Hakim Mosque because of their rare design that was imported to Egypt form North Africa, the origin of the Fatimids.

The minarets were built by dropping them inside two huge square stone structures that appear clearly from outside the Mosque. This was how the Fatimid used to build their minarets in Tunisia and North Africa.

The Northern minaret is 33.7 meters long topped by a cylindrical body and above it lies a "Mabkhra" style head, very famous design in the days of the Fatimids. While the other minaret is 24.7 meters with an octagonal body above it and the "Mabkhra" head at the end.

The bases of these two minarets are original. However, the tops of the minarets were changed by Baybars Al Jashnkeer in 1303 when an earthquake hit Egypt causing a lot of damage to the mosque. Baybars Also added the wonderful Mihrab of the mosque built out of colored marble.

The mosque would also appear similar to the Azhar Mosque in some factors: they both have this curve in the walls of the prayer halls except that these of Al Hakim Mosque is much higher. Both mosques also share having three small domes in the Qibla prayer hall.

The usages of the mosque through history

The Mosque of Al Hakim was not always used as a mosque or a prayer area as it was used for many other purposes through its history because of its wide space.

The Mosque of Al Hakim was used as a prison for the crusaders and a horse stable in the reign of Salah El Din and a storage area for food and weapon in the period of the French occupation of Egypt by Napoleon Bona Parte.

At the end of the French occupation, the French soldiers left the mosque in a very poor state. The Mosque of Al Hakim was not renovated until the period of Caliph Tawfiq when he decided to transform the mosque into an Islamic art museum, before the museum was established in Port Said Street.

The Ismailie Shiites have also played a major role in repairing and restoring the mosque by adding the remarkable marble floor and a lot of other architectural aspects especially ornamenting the walls of the mosque with plaster decorations.

It must be also noted that the Indian Bohra Shiites hold the credit for all the modern restoration that took place in the Mosque of Al Hakim to appear in the way it is today.

The Mosque of Al Hakim was even used as a school in the times of the former Egyptian president, Gamal Abdel Nasser.

Today, the mosque receives numerous visitors from around the world to view the fascinating ancient Islamic architecture. The mosque is also still used for prayer until this day.

Built by Saladin El Ayouby, the famous king and army leader and the founder of the Ayyubid Dynasty, during the end of the 12th century, the Citadel has witnessed many important events in the Egyptian history.
The citadel was used as the seat of the king and his government in Egypt for many centuries and many dynasties including the Ayyubids, the Mamluks, and even some Ottomans ruled over Egypt from the Citadel.

The citadel had always played a significant role in the political life of Egypt in different stages of history to the extent that in some occasions a king used to rule over Cairo while another Sultan or ruler had control of the citadel. Moreover, the Citadel has defended Egypt against many attacks in different periods of time.
Many important monuments were built in the Citadel of Saladin throughout its long history. This includes the marvelous Mosque of Mohamed Ali which is the best example of the Ottoman architecture in Egypt, the Mamluk Mosque of El Nasser Mohamed, and the small charming Mosque of Suleiman Pasha El Khadim.
Today, the Citadel of Saladin is considered to be among the most popular historical sites of Cairo as it is included in almost all the tours designed for visiting the capital of Egypt.
Other than the mosques, the citadel hosts another four interesting museums; the Military Museum, the Police Museum, the Royal Carriages Museum, and the Qaser El Gawhara Museum.
Located at the top of a high cliff, the citadel is also featured with its special location that offers the tourists with magnificent views over different sections around Cairo.
The Reasons behind the Construction of the Citadel and its Location
When Saladin took control of Egypt, with no resistance to be mentioned from the Fatimids who ruled Egypt from the 8th till the 12th century, he decided that Cairo should have a fortified citadel to protect the city against any foreign attacks especially the threat of the crusaders that were carrying military campaigns towards the Middle East at this period of time.
Saladin was influenced with the forts and citadels he viewed in Syria and Lebanon and how fortified and protective they were. Recognizing the importance of having such a citadel to protect Cairo, he guided all the resources he had to construct such an important military structure.
After checking out many different locations in and around Cairo, Saladin decided to construct his citadel over the Mokatam Hill to overlook the whole city of Cairo and to be located at a high position that is hard to be reached or attacked.

History of its Construction

The construction work of the citadel of Saladin in Cairo has started in 1176 during the reign of Saladin. However, it was completed in 1182 during the ruling period of Al Malek El Kamel, who governed Egypt after Saladin and was the first king to live in the citadel.
Saladin insisted to build a strong fortified citadel to protect the city of Cairo against all sorts of threats. Maybe this was why it was said that he destructed some small pyramids in Giza and used their stones to build his citadel and its walls.
Many of the soldiers of the army of Saladin together with some crusaders that were captured by Saladin have worked together in the building of the citadel that was viewed as a wonderful piece of military architecture when it was completed.
Saladin has also dig a water well inside the citadel to be used by the soldiers if the citadel goes under siege and this well is considered to be one of the most difficult constructions achieved at this period in the 12th century as it was 90 meters deep and it was dig inside the hardest rocks of the Mokatam Mountain.
Regarded as one of the most elegant fortresses to be constructed in the middle ages, the Citadel of Saladin in Cairo is featured with its strategic location overlooking the two neighboring cities that were alive at the time; Fustat and Cairo.
Moreover, being situated between the two cities, the Citadel of Saladin provided good connections between different sections of town and it functioned as a place to resort to and to be protected in case of any sudden attack on Cairo.

Historical Events the Citadel Witnessed

The Citadel of Saladin in Cairo has witnessed several important events throughout the history of Egypt during the Ayyubid and Mamluks period. Even during the French invasion of Egypt, under the leadership of Napoleon Bonaparte in 1798, the citadel had an important role to play in defending the city until the French soldiers took control of it.
Mohamed Ali, who was sent by the Ottoman Sultan in Istanbul to rule Egypt under his leadership and who was able to make Egypt an independent state away from the Ottoman power in the 19th century, ruled Egypt from the citadel.


Furthermore, it was in the Qaser El Gawhara or the Palace of the Jewel, which is located inside the Citadel of Saladin and was transformed into a museum today, where Mohamed Ali invited the Mamluks leaders and murdered them in the famous political event that was named afterwards as the "Massacre of the Citadel"

The Gates of the Citadel of Saladin

El Mokatam Gate

This gate was named El Mokatam Gate because it was created near the Mokatam monitoring tower of the citadel. Constructed during the Ottoman period, this gate is now called the Salah Salem Gate, referring to the street where it is located today.
The Gate of Mokatam was created inside a thick wall made out of hard rocks to the South of the Tower of Mokatam. In 1785, a wall with several balconies was added to the gate during the reign of Mohamed Yakan Pasha who constructed himself a palace near his gate. Unfortunately the palace was damaged afterwards in different historical events.
When Mohamed Ali came to rule over Egypt he made many restoration and renovations to the Citadel of Saladin as he paved a way between Bab El Mokatam in the citadel and the road located below it, which was 650 meters long.
The Gate of El Mokatam was damaged with time passing by and a large portion of the walls surrounding it was lost as well when the Egyptian government constructed the Salah Salem Road in 1955 and a new door was established where guests enter the citadel through today.

Bab El Hadeed or the Iron Gate

Mohamed Ali has started constructing the Iron Gate in 1822 to be the main gate of the Citadel of Saladin as it allowed larger cannons and equipments to enter the citadel. Mohamed Ali has also paved a road connecting this gate to the rest of Cairo and it is today known as the Street of Bab El Hadeed.
The Iron Gate has two main facades; the Northern façade that overlooks the Bab El Hadeed Street near Dar El Mahfozat, or the Old Building of Archives that was connected to the Citadel and this northern façade is now about 15 meters long and from 16 to 20 meters high.
The Northern façade of the Iron Gate of the Citadel of Saladin has some marvelous architectural elements like the memorial plate that contains some facts about the construction of the gate.

The Middle Gate

Historians have long argued about the origin of the name of this gate. Some of them claim that it was named the Middle Gate because it was located in the middle between the two administration buildings of the two Sultans; Sultan El Ghoury and Sultan Qalauan afterwards.
Other theories noted that it was called the Middle Gate because it was located between the two other main gates of the citadel; the Iron Gate and El Mokatam Gate.
In 1826, Mohamed Ali restored this gate, which exact construction date is still unknown, and the walls that were surrounding it, as part of his large restoration and renovation works that were carried out in the Citadel of Saladin.
Under Mohamed Ali, there were other monuments added to the Citadel, among them the great alabaster Mosque of Mohamed Ali.
The Citadel of Saladin will always remain one of the most important highlights of Cairo. Visiting the Mosque of Mohamed Ali, the Military Museum, viewing the marvelous architecture of the citadel, and watching Cairo from above are among the most interesting activities to be done in the citadel while a traveler is touring the Egyptian capital.

This is one of the extraordinarily wonderful Islamic Monuments In the Islamic World. If Ancient Egypt is proud of the Pyramids of Giza, Islamic Egypt has to be proud of the Sultan Hassan Madrassa. The founder of this gigantic monument is the Sultan Hassan, son of the great Mamluke Sultan Al-Nasser Mohamed Ibn Qalawoun. Sultan Hassan ruled twice, the first time in 1347, when he was 13 years old, only to be dethroned by the other Mamluke princes and generals. The second time was in 1356A.D, and before he had time to put an end to the power of the princes and high officials, they revolted against him, and the chief of the army with other generals attacked him. It said that he escaped from the Citadel and hid in Cairo; but he was found and imprisoned, never to be seen again! Most probably he was murdered 16 years after his ascension to the throne. Either way, he left 10 sons and 6 daughters.

The Sultan Hassan gave order for the construction of this Madrassa to be under the supervision of Prince Mohamed Ibn Baylik Al-Muhssani in 1361A.D, and the work continued for 4 years. The Mosque was almost complete when Sultan Hassan disappeared or was killed. It was finished by one of his functionaries whose name was Bashir Al-Gamdar. The site of the Madrassa was previously known as Souk Al-Khayl or the Horses Market. The Madrassa was built of stones, but some internal parts and details were built of bricks, faced with stones.
The Madrassa-Mosque was built according to the cruciform, an open courtyard surrounded by 4 iwans. It contains 4 Madrassas or religious schools and is 7,906 square metres big. It is very distinguishable due to its many sides. It has 4 fa�ades, the most important being the 2 main facades.

The most remarkable fa�ade is the northeast one. It is 145m long and 38m tall! Its shear wall has 4 pairs of windows set vertically, and at the top of the wall is a massive cornice of 5 layers of stalactites, projecting about 1.5m.
The Sahn, or the court, of the Mosque is almost square, about 34m long and 32m wide, with a large ablution fountain in the centre, which is covered with a wooden dome, carried on 8 marble columns around its capital decorated with a band of inscriptions of The Qur'an (the verse of Al-Kursi). At each corner of the sahn is a door that leads to one of the 4 Madrassas (schools); the biggest one being the Hanafiyya Madrassa, which occupies an area of 898 square metres.
The quibla iwan is the biggest of the 4 iwans of the Mosque. In its wall, 2 windows in recesses, and an oculus above the mihrab, the pointed-arched mihrab is fine, and covered with marble, and there are small double columns supporting the frame with complex joggled voussoirs.
On the rectangular outer frame is a band of Naskhi inscription. Flanking the Mihrab are windows with bronze grills. The marble Minbar is covered with coloured panels of marble decorated in its upper part by floral motifs.
The Dekkat Al-Mouballegh or the bench of the repeater is situated at the front of the quibla iwan, and it is made of marble, raised on 8 pillars and 3 piers. There are 2 doors opened in the Quibla wall leading to a mausoleum dome behind the mihrab, where the Sultan is supposed to be buried. The Mausoleum dome is 21 square metres and its decoration is similar to that of the quibla iwan.

The founder :
Ahmed Ibn Tulun ( 263-265 A.H ), born about 835 A.D, he is one of the Turkish commanders in Samarra in Iraqu. He receives his military and theological training in Samarra and Tarsus .His intelligence and courage attracted the attention of the Khalif and in 868 A.D he made proxy for his step-father Bakabak's governorship of Egypt.
He established himself as an independent ruler for the Province. An abortive attempt to remove him encouraged Ahmed to attach Syria.
Ahmed Ibn Tulun founded a new Capital called Alqatai around the hill of Gabal Yashkur, to the NE of Al Fustat, razing the Christian and the Jewish cemetery that was located in that area.
The Mosque
The site chosen for his mosque was an outcrop of rock called Gabal Yashkur. Is It situated in sharia Al Saliba.
1-It is the oldest intact functioning Islamic monument in Cairo. It is considered the 3rd mosque which was constructed for the whole community or the congregation joined together for the Friday noon prayer.
2- It is also rare preserved example of the art and the architecture of the classical period of Islam.
It is one of the biggest mosques in Egypt. The mosque together with the ziyada occupies an area of 6.5 acres.
The plan of the Mosque:
It is nearly square in shape, measures 162 m. in length and 161 m. in width. The area which is dedicated for the prayer is rectangular in shape measures about 137 m. x 118 m.
It was designed as open court or central square Sahn (about 92 m) Surrounded by four riwaqs. The riwaq of the quibla contains 5 arcades . while each of the other riwaqs consists of 2 arcades.
The mosque surrounded by Ziyadas ( extension) on 3 sides, the Ziyada is an enclosed space or precinct to separate the mosque from the markets and in order to protect the mosque and the prayers from the noise of the street.
Outside the mosque on the quibla wall there was a palace or Dar El Imarah (house of the government, or the ruler residence ), now destroyed, with its own entrance near to the Mihrab from which Ahmed Ibn Tulun used to enter to the mosque before leading the prayer.
The Entrance of the Mosque:
This mosque has19 doors on 3 sides, each door corresponding To another door in the ziyadas, and there are another 3 doors cut in the wall of the quibla. The lintels are composed of palm-trunks, boxed with wood and above a releasing arch, some of these doors still retain their original carving.
The Foundation Slate:
On the right hand central Pier of the 3rd arcade from the sahn is the Foundation Slate ; it includes the Foundation Inscription, it is a rectangular slab of marble ( 1,6 m X 97 cm) written in Kufic inscription and it contains The verse of El Kursi ( Ayat Al Kursi) from the Koran and the date of 265 A.H
The Crenulations:
Both the walls of the mosque and the Ziyada are crowned with crenulations which are similar to the paper cut-outs of human figures with linked arms.
The Sahn ( the courtyard ):
It is square in shape, each of its sides measures about 92 m.
The original courtyard was not paved and filled with pebbles as it is today, because this space was intended for prayer.
The Fawarah in the middle of the Sahn is the 3rd one, the first one was the original built by Ahmed Ibn Tulun. It was gilded and stood on 10 columns of marble. The 2nd one was Al Aziz but was destroyed .The actual one is the third built by The sultan Lagin Al Mansoury among some other works he did for the mosque. ( 14 X 12 m ) and it is 20 m in height. This Fawarah was built by the architect Ibn Al Roumyyah. It has a Mameluk design; it is stood on 4 pointed arches , the zone of transition has stepped corners with a window in the uppermost step and 3 windows of 3 lights on each side. The dome is plain without a drum and raised on squinch. Above, a continuos stalactite frieze runs around the base of the dome and above that a band of Naskhi inscription from the Koran dealing with the ablution.
The Arcades:
The arcades around the courtyard or the Sahn which are deeper on the quibla Riwaq or the sanctuary side are formed by pointed Arches on brick Piers .Rosettes and windows form a continuous and simple decoration. These arcades are supported by piers.
Unlike columns.These Piers are rectangular and decorated with four masonry-engaged columns. Their capitals have the same bell shape as the bases, and both plastered and carved. Originally would seem that all of the arcades had soffits of curved stucco similar to those which have been restored in the Southern arcade.
The arches:
The Arches of the arcades are pointed, They are outlined with an edge of carved stucco, and spring from oblong supports rounded at the corners by pilasters or engaged columns.
The Quibla Riwaq ( The Sanctuary ):
It includes 5 aisles deeper than the others and they are parallel to the Prayer niche ( the Mihrab), while each of the other riwaq includes just 2 aisles . This Riwaq actually has 6 prayer niches or mihrabs
The main Mihrab is in the middle of the quibla wall, it is the tallest and the only concave one The others are flat .It consists of a double pointed arched recess flanked by a pair
Byzantine style marble columns with basket work capitals. Its stucco moluding and the 2 stucco bosses on each side of the arch are original. The interior is decorated in Mameluk style made by the sultan Lajin, the upper decoration of painted wood, and strips of polychrome marble , above which is a band of Naskhi inscription in black mosaic on a gold background containing the shahada. The Dikka of the Mouballegh ( the bench of the Mouballegh) is situated in Riwaq. Al Quibla near the courtyard. It is a wide bench of marble columns used for communicating the words of the Imam during the prayer.
The Ceiling:
The ceiling is composed of Palm logs boxed in wooden panels. Below the ceiling there are a long band of inscription on sycamore wood which runs around the whole mosque contains verses from the Koran. This frieze is 2 Km. In length, and it is calculate one fifteenth of the whole holly book .There is a legend that the boards used for this inscription are left over from the Noah's Ark.
The Windows:
The upper part of the mosque wall is pierced with pointed arch windows flanked with colonnades .The windows alternate on the outside wall within blind niches with a shell conch .
There are 128 windows and their arrangements on the walls are independent of the arches so that not every arch has a centred window. The functions of these arched windows of the arched windows are providing light and reduce the weight carried by the arches.
Creswell attributes only 4 of the windows stucco grills to the Tulunide Period, those of the plain geometrical design, while the rest displaying a large variety of more complicated geometrical patterns date back to the Fatimide and the Mameluk Periods.
The Minaret:
It stands on the North side of the Ziyada, where a door leads to it is an unusual stone structure with an outer staircase, and a Mameluk top of the type named Mabkhara. This minaret caused controversy among the Cairo's Architectural historians. We don't have enough sources to clear this point or determine its date.

Mosque of Amr Ibn Al-As is the first mosque built in Egypt and Africa and It was constructed by Amr Ibn Al-As in 642 AD.
Amr was the Arab general who conquest Egypt to fight against the Roman and He was hailed by the Copts as a liberator. Then he was appointed governor by the Caliph. Amr founded a new capital instead of Alexandria, and that was Al Fustat.

In he center of Al Futat was the mosque which later on was named " The Mosque of Amr" It was surrounded by the plans and houses of Al Fustat. Originally the mosque was overlooking the Nile from the Northwest side .
The mosque was called " the Crown of the Mosques" and the Antique Mosque. In fact the actual features of the mosque is very different of his first ancient aspect. Many reconstructions, and restorations took place since the time of its foundation till now to be resulted in its actual. The mosque was built in a shape of rectangular low shed of wood and palm leaves supported on columns of palm stems, stones and mud bricks while the floor was covered with gravel. That first simple mosque measures about 29 m. in length and 17 m. in width.
Since the time of the foundation of the mosque many additions and extensions took place, but the most important one was made by the governor Abudllah Ibn Taher during the reign of Caliph Al Mamoun in the 9th century . He extended the mosque adding a new area at the S.W side and that extension was the last one. Thus at that time the mosque measures 120 m. in length and 112 m. in width, and that represents the actual area of the mosque. At the end of the Fatimid period, the mosque was ruined as a result of Al Fustat Fire which took place in 1175 AD. When Al Fustat was burnt by Shawer, the Vizier of the Fatimid Caliph Al Adid, to prevent the crusaders from invading Al Fustat , and that fire continued 54 days.Therefore Saladin rebuilt it and renovated it in 1179 AD. Just before the arrival of the French Expedition to Egypt Mourad Bey one of the Mameluke leaders in the end of the 18th century demolished the mosque and rebuilt it in 1796 AD. Mourad Bey changed the Iwan and the courtyard replacing the seven rows of coumns in the quibla liwan with 6 ones and changing the bays to be perpendicular to the quibla wall instead of being parallel to it. Most probably he built the remaining minarets, one above the right entrance in the façade and the other is situated above the right end of the quibla wall. He renovated the ceiling, and covered the floor with mats and provided the mosque with candelabras. Also he made 4 foundation tablets still existing, bearing poetic verses praising and dating his achievements. One of this tablets is fixed to the quibla wall to the left of the Mihrab.
In 1906 during the reign of khedive Abbas Helmy II, the mosque was restored entirely. These works were achieved by the Arab Antiquities Preservation committee.
At the Southern corner of the quibla Riwaq there is a Mausoleum below a dome, Perhaps it belongs to Abdulla the son of Amr, some Historians cant confirm that, they believe that no honorable figure was buried in that Mausoleum.
One of the most remarkable facts about that mosque, that it was not only a place for prayer but also a very important kind of university 600 years before the foundation of Al Azhar mosque in Cairo. It was the place where lesson circles and religious lectures were held. One of the most important Religious professors and Imams who taught in this mosque, was the Mohamed Ibn Idris Al Shafi'.
Finally we should mention that in the Western addition (Ziada) there was used as a court of low and many trials of law were held